The James Beard Foundation announced the semifinalists in the 2012 Restaurant and Chef Awards — the finalists will be announced on March 19 in Las Vegas. This is the “long list” before the list is winnowed down to the official finalists.

Outstanding Bar Program

Anvil Bar & Refuge, Houston
Arnaud’s French 75 Bar, New Orleans
The Aviary, Chicago
Bar Agricole, San Francisco
Beretta, San Francisco
Clyde Common, Portland, OR
The Columbia Room, Washington, D.C.
Cook & Brown Public House, Providence, RI
Cure, New Orleans
Drink, Boston
The Esquire Tavern, San Antonio, TX
The Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co., Philadelphia
High West Distillery & Saloon, Park City, UT
Holeman & Finch Public House, Atlanta
La Belle Vie, Minneapolis
The Old Fashioned, Madison, WI
PDT, NYC
Pegu Club, NYC
The Porter Beer Bar, Atlanta
PX, Alexandria, VA
Rivera, Los Angeles
Standard Tap, Philadelphia
The Violet Hour, Chicago
The Zig Zag Café, Seattle

Outstanding Wine & Spirits Professional

Sam Calagione, Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, Milton, DE
Ron Cooper, Del Maguey, Single Village Mezcal, Ranchos de Taos, NM
Merry Edwards, Merry Edwards Winery, Sebastopol, CA
Greg Engert, Neighborhood Restaurant Group, Alexandria, VA
Alex Golitzin, Quilceda Creek Vintners, Snohomish, WA
Paul Grieco, Terroir, NYC
Ken Grossman, Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., Chico, CA
Lance Hanson, Peak Spirits, Hotchkiss, CO
David Hirsch, Hirsch Vineyards, Cazadero, CA
Manfred Krankl, Sine Qua Non, Ventura, CA
Jim Koch, The Boston Beer Company, Boston
Steve McCarthy, Clear Creek Distillery, Portland, OR
Garrett Oliver, Brooklyn Brewery, NYC
Jorge Ordoñez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA
Virginia Philip, Virginia Philip Wine Shop & Academy, West Palm Beach, FL
Neal Rosenthal, Mad Rose Group, Pine Plains, NY
Jörg Rupf, St. George Spirits, Alameda, CA
Abe Schoener, The Scholium Project, Napa, CA
Eric Solomon, Eric Solomon Selections – European Cellars, Charlotte, NC
Sean Lilly Wilson, Fullsteam, Durham, NC

Amante Picante

This is a fairly recent creation by Francesco Lafranconi, which translates into “Spicy Lover”.  A very vegetal and herbal cocktail, that can easily be overpowered by using an inappropriate hot pepper sauce.  Make sure you use the green variety, as it is much more gentle.  Try it with a dash first and see how you like it, you can always add another if you so desire.

I like the taste of cilantro, and think it should be used more often in cocktails.  In this one, when combined with the cucumber, it moves into the background.  But, there is so much going on here that everything is a bit subdued.

Here’s what Francesco has to say about the origin of his cocktail: “The drink was inspired from a finalist in the Tabasco cocktail competition.  I changed the spirit base into Tequila and chose Green Tabasco instead of another (Tabasco) flavor to make it more mild and a great ceviche-like food pairing.  I use about 5-7 drops per drink. This drink is featured in a few bars in Las Vegas and around the country (due to my consulting opportunities) and was awarded the 2011 Best Las Vegas Cocktail. I suggest using a tequila like El Tesoro with a hint of smoke. This recipe is also featured in Kathy Casey’s Sips & Apps.”

Amante Picante

2 cucumber slices
2 frsh cilantro sprigs
2 oz blanco tequila
1 oz lime juice
1 oz simple syrup
2 dashes jalapeno hot pepper sauce
Garnish: cucumber slice

Muddle 2 cucumber slices and cilantro in mixing glass.  Add remaining ingredients.  Shake with ice and double-strain into chilled cocktail glass.  Garnish with cucumber.

First off, that is not a worm in the bottle.  It’s the larvae of a moth that makes its home in the maguey plant, a relative of the agave.  Second of all, there are no psychoactive properties to said larvae or mezcal.  It has no connection to mescaline, but rather the word mezcal means “oven cooked agave”.  Third, the larvae is a gimmick that’s been around for the last 70 years that doesn’t add anything to the spirit.  So, what is mezcal?

The best mezcal is made from 100% agave, as is tequila.  However, as I mentioned, mezcal is made from the maguey plant, a species of agave, as opposed to Blue Weber agave.  This plant, also known as the century plant in the U.S., grows in the region of Oaxaca, Mexico.  When traditionally making mezcal, generally the pulp of the maguey pina is roasted in an underground clay oven which imparts the characteristic smokey profile.  The end result is very similar to what you’ll find in a highly peated Islay scotch.  Zignum mezcal does things a bit differently tho’.

Instead of roasting the maguey, they extract the juice from the plants before steam-cooking them, which creates a cleaner and smoother flavor. They then age the distillate for two months in white American new oak barrels.  Despite this relatively short aging process, the typical vanilla and caramel flavors come through quite clearly.

Zignum Reposado Mezcal (80 proof)

Visual: Very light pale gold.
Nose: Slightly smokey, but more vegetal with peppery notes.  A warm and lingering sugary sweetness.
Taste: Light and sweet with a lot of similar character to an Irish whiskey.  The usual smoke of a mezcal is downplayed in deference to the sweetness of the agave and the oak aging.
Finish: The finish is quite long leaving a lot of rock candy sweetness with a slightly dry bitterness.
Overall: An excellent sipping mezcal which also lends itself well to mixing in cocktails.
GSN Rating: B+

For more information go to: Zignum

Chesapeake Bay Bitters - A major hit of cayenne and black pepper perk things up immediately, but as time goes on a touch of bay leaf comes through.  These are intense and not more than a dash is needed, unless you’re going for a lot of fire.  Perfect in a Bloody Mary, these can also add an interesting touch of heat to fruit based rum drinks.  GSN Rating: A

Curry Bitters - Again, a lot of heat here, but softer and with the unique flavor of an Indian curry.  These will work well with coconut water or coconut rum cocktails, adding a piquant texture.  Not recommended for use with coconut cream however, as the high sugar content will conflict with the spice.  The curry flavor itself tastes good and has an authentic flavor.  GSN Rating: A-

For more information go to: Bitter End

Allen

I have no idea of the origin of this cocktail, or who Allen is or was; but this really is a tasty drink.  Basically an Aviation or a Blue Moon minus Creme de Violette in the former or Creme Yvette in the latter.  What interested me, is that the ratio of maraschino to lemon juice somehow managed to be in such balance as to virtually replicate the highly floral flavor profile of an Aviation. Try one and see for yourself.

As for why this drink isn’t more well known (as all of the ingredients are fairly easy to obtain); the name “Allen” is pretty bland, whereas “Aviation” lends itself to a kind of daring-do, Amelia Earhart kind of iconography.  Imagine sidling up the bar and saying, “Yeah, give me an Allen.”  Just doesn’t have the same air of sophistication.  In any case, I like this one and will be making it at home on a regular basis, thank you!

Allen

1.5 oz gin
0.75 oz maraschino liqueur
0.5 oz lemon juice

Shake with ice and strain into chilled cocktail glass.

Nominations are now being accepted for the 2012 Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards®.

Categories

American Bartender of the Year
Criteria: From Jerry Thomas onwards, American bartenders have been amongst the most influential on drinks styles and cocktail culture in general. This award seeks to recognize the most influential American bartender today. The winner should be proficient at making all recognized classic drinks and also have created contemporary cocktails that have been copied by his/her peers. Nominees must actively be working behind the bar.

Best American Brand Ambassador
Criteria: An award which recognizes the importance of personality in the promotion of drinks brands and their creative use of brand communication to engage the trade and their ability to execute compelling education and seminars. This person must be working as an Ambassador full time in the USA. Nominees must NOT be working behind the bar.

Best American Cocktail Bar
Criteria: This award recognizes the influence on cocktail trends within the United States and seeks to award the country’s best cocktail bar. Menu, bar teams, atmosphere and cocktail quality are all considered.

Best Bar Mentor
Criteria: Not everybody who is having an impact on the quality of the cocktails we drink are working behind the bar as bartenders. There are many people who are creating fine bar programs, training the next generation of great bartenders, and playing an active role in designing the bars we all love to drink in. This award is to recognize those individuals who, in their professional life, play a crucial role in raising the quality of bars, bartenders, and cocktails without currently working as a bartender. Nominees must NOT be working behind the bar.

Best High Volume Cocktail Bar
Criteria: Awarded to the bar that consistently delivers top quality cocktails at bars with 100 seats or more. This award celebrates those bars that deliver cocktail culture to the masses efficiently. Cocktails, lists, bartending and service are all considered.

Best Cocktail Writing
Criteria: Great journalism is one of the best ways to communicate to the general public the value and significance of great cocktails and related products. This award is for any non-book journalism (Magazine, Newspaper, Website, etc) that promotes bars, bartender, or cocktails in general. This award is split into two sub-categories: non-book author and non-book publication.

Best International Brand Ambassador
Criteria: An award which recognizes the importance of personality in the promotion of drinks brands and their creative use of brand communication to engage the trade and their ability to execute compelling education and seminars. This person should work in an International capacity or in a country other than the USA. Nominees must NOT be working behind the bar.

Best New Cocktail/Bartending Book
Criteria: The best book published in 2011 regarding cocktails, liquor, bars, bar design or bartending in general. New editions of existing works may also be nominated.

Best New Product
Criteria: This is awarded to what the judges consider to be the best newcocktail ingredient (spirit, liqueur, syrup or juice) or piece of cocktail equipment (muddler, shaker etc.). To qualify products must be on general retail sale in at least three US states as of March 31, 2011.

Best Restaurant Bar
Criteria: This award is for the restaurant bar that is dedicated to creating a great cocktail experience for their dining guests. Considerations will go to the approach they have to aperitif and digestive drinks, how well they work with the kitchen to pair cocktails with food as well as general bartending and mixing excellence.

International Bartender of the Year
Criteria: The absolute best drinks mixer in the world. The winner must have received international recognition of their work with their own recipes crossing borders to appear on cocktail menus in numerous countries. (US citizens are not excluded.)

World’s Best Cocktail Bar
Criteria: Only truly world-class bars will be considered for this illustrious title. Some bars attain worldwide recognition and this award recognizes the very best of the best.

World’s Best Cocktail Menu
Criteria: The judges seek to reward innovative and thirst inducing cocktail menus. Both the design and content will be considered.

World’s Best Drinks Selection
Criteria: A venue stocking an outstanding range of spirits and liqueurs. The judges will favor discernment as well as sheer number of bottles stocked.

World’s Best Hotel Bar
Criteria: The classic ‘American Bar’ played an important role in the history and development of cocktail culture. The judges are looking for hotel bars that uphold this tradition (but are not necessarily old) and offer five-star service and consistently well made drinks.

World’s Best New Cocktail Bar
Criteria: Only bars which opened after March 31 ,2011 may be nominated. This award aims to reward new creativity and ideas as well as well executed drinks.

Fourteen of the world’s foremost distilled spirits authorities are descending upon New York’s Astor Center this March 5-9 to rate the world’s finest gins, whiskeys, tequilas, rums, vodkas, brandies and liqueurs at Ultimate Beverage Challenge’s 2012 Ultimate Spirits Challenge. Led by Judging Chairmen F. Paul Pacult and Sean Ludford, this remarkable group of superstar authors, spirits buyers, journalists, educators, bar owners and consultants will render the most unassailable results in the industry.

Says UBC Judging Chairman and founding member Paul Pacult, “Allow me to take my gloves off. Many of the supposed top spirits competitions are rife with judges that are, to be kind, out of their depth. Wine judges shouldn’t be evaluating reposado tequilas and single malt Scotch, period. This type of miscalculation on the part of competition organizers does a serious disservice to spirits producers who enter their products.”

“Ultimate Spirits Challenge judges for 2012 have been chosen for their consistent judging excellence over the last two years at both Ultimate Spirits Challenge and Ultimate Cocktail Challenge. Many are buyers who, together, purchase many thousands of cases of spirits each year. Consequently, if I happened to be a spirits producer or marketer, this is the elite group of genuine and acknowledged experts that I’d demand to evaluate my product. Could I use a USC Chairman’s Trophy or a healthy score to promote my spirit? Oh yeah.”

Ultimate Spirits Challenge 2012 Judges:

•     Chairman F. Paul Pacult – journalist, author, educator, author
•     Co-Chairman Sean Ludford – journalist, consultant
•     Jacques Bezuidenhout – consultant, bartender
•     Tad Carducci – bar owner, buyer, consultant
•     James Conley – buyer
•     Dale DeGroff – author, consultant, educator, journalist
•     Doug Frost, MS, MW – author, educator, journalist
•     Jim Meehan – bar owner, author, bartender, consultant, buyer
•     Steve Olson – consultant, bar owner, buyer, educator
•     Julie Reiner – bar owner, buyer
•     Jack Robertiello – journalist
•     Andy Seymour – consultant, bar owner, buyer, educator
•     Marcos Tello – bartender, buyer
•     David Wondrich – author, journalist, educator, consultant

Adds Sean Ludford, “USC’s back of house staff is more qualified to judge than most judges in other competitions. Ultimate Spirits Challenge is all about authority and integrity.”

The back of house staff is led by the incomparable Leo DeGroff along with Sean Kenyon, Dan Nicoleascu, Brent Lamberti and Steven Fette (all BAR 5-Day superstars) who in turn are supported by a group of the beverage industry’s brightest rising stars.

Ultimate Spirits Challenge…like no other competition and doesn’t want to be.

ABOUT ULTIMATE BEVERAGE CHALLENGE
Ultimate Beverage Challenge (UBC) provides expert evaluation of wines and spirits for producers, importers and marketers through its three innovative annual competitions – Ultimate Spirits Challenge, Ultimate Wine Challenge and Ultimate Cocktail Challenge. Based on exacting standards, expert judges and rigorous methodology, UBC raises the standards of spirits and wine evaluation and supplies ratings and accolades to help companies build their brands with buyers, both industry and consumer. UBC was founded by F. Paul Pacult, Sue Woodley and David Talbot. Challenge and event photos, videos and press coverage can be found at http://www.ultimate-beverage.com.

Tabu absinth is made in Germany and although they make a quite traditional absinthe, they also have a few rather unusual products which are technically not absinthes, but rather infusions.  The base for each of these is a grape based distillate, which they then infuse with a variety of nuts, citrus and herbs, depending on the style they are shooting for.  It’s quite an experience.

Tabu Classic (110 proof)

Visual: Beautiful peridot green.
Nose: Delicate and fresh anise and natural licorice scent.
Taste: Strong and sweet with intense licorice and bitter herbal notes.
Finish: Long and lingering with a semi-sweet but somewhat dry finish.
Overall:  A quite powerful absinthe which has a lot of traditional characteristics.  Definitely recommended for use in cocktails.
GSN Rating: A

Tabu Dry (110 proof)

Visual: Golden yellow.
Nose: Loads of almond along with softer background spice.
Taste: An unusual bitter almond flavor that opens up when louched into something more akin to an almond liqueur.
Finish: The flavor lasts a fairly long time and leaves your mouth feeling dry with herbal flavors.
Overall:  Not really an absinthe, but more of a high proof herbal/almond hybrid.  This will be quite interesting to try in tiki and faux tropical drinks that call for orgeat.
GSN Rating: B

Tabu Red (110 proof)

Visual: Hyper-bright Lifesaver candy orange.
Nose: A lot of licorice along with a quiet orange background.
Taste: A lot of the usual anise and licorice flavoring the forefront while other bitter herbs play a supporting role.  The orange flavor is more evident when louched, but is still quite subdued.
Finish: Long and bittersweet with orange peel.
Overall: Despite the odd color this is more like a typical absinthe than not.  The orange lingers in the background but works quite well with the anise flavor.  Again, a dry and clean finish.
GSN Rating: B+

Tabu Classic Strong (146 proof)

Visual: Dark crystal green.
Nose: Very intense anise and licorice scent.
Taste: Spicy, yet quite smooth considering how high the proof is.  Very dry, almost tannic and with a heavy bitterness similar to strong amaros.
Finish: Not as sweet as the regular Tabu Classic.  There’s almost a quality of sage in this.
Overall: As you would expect, quite strong, but an absinthe in the tradition of an olde style.  This might be to the liking of someone who want their Absinthe Frappes less sweet.  This also would work well in cocktails calling for an absinthe rinse.
GSN Rating: A-

Tabu is currently only available in Europe. 

For more information go to: Tabu Absinth

Allegheny

Sorry for the lack of updates on the Mr. Boston project, but sometimes “real life” intrudes upon the best laid plans.  In any case, we pick up again with the Allegheny cocktail, which is named in tribute to the pioneers who crossed the Appalachian Mountain range which includes the great Allegheny mountains.  They did this in order to make bourbon.  Well, that’s not entirely true, but we do know that Bourbon County was eventually settled by these early Americans and that they began making corn whiskey there.  Ironically, bourbon is no longer made in that county.  Ah, the vagaries of time…

This is basically a dry Manhattan with the addition of blackberry brandy and lemon juice, giving it a sweet and sour character.  Personally, I’d cut back on the amount of lemon, but I do like how the blackberry plays with the whiskey.  An old school cocktail that was nice to revisit after several years.

Allegheny

1 oz bourbon
1 oz dry vermouth
0.5 oz blackberry brandy
0.5 oz lemon juice
Garnish: lemon twist

Shake with ice and strain into chilled cocktail glass.  Add lemon twist.

Bitters, Old Men is a New York City company and they’ve already made a name for themselves at such fine establishments as Fatty Johnsons, Empellon and wd-50.  As well, they’ve received positive reviews in the New York Times and even been used on the Martha Stewart Show.  They are nothing, if not ambitious.  Read on to find out my thoughts on their entire product line….

Gangsta Lee’n Bitters - Including bacon, orange peel and smoked almonds.  The bacon is predominant and you can imagine that you just ate a handful of smoked almonds on top of it.  These will work with bourbon or rye quite handily and make for an interesting addition to a Bloody Mary.  GSN Rating: B

Great in ’28 Bitters - No indication of what to expect from these bitters, I can only guess that it refers to the original Boker’s Bitters which were one of the great cocktail products of the 1800′s.  The founder, John G. Boker began producing his product in 1828, and sold millions of bottles until the Volstead act shut him and many other companies down in the 1920′s.  Certainly less aggressive than Angostura or other modern aromatic bitters on the market, these have a subtle herbal quality with a hint of grapefruit in them.  Try these in some of Professor Jerry Thomas’ recipes which call for Boker’s and see what you think.  GSN Rating: A-

Issan Another Level Bitters - Just reading the label ingredients made me wonder what in the world they were smoking when they came up with this recipe.  It sounds like an Asian market: ginger, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf, bird’s eye chili, fish sauce and soy sauce are just some of the ingredients used.  However, the flavor is not what I expected, being more about heat than anything else.  Not that these are volcanic, but they do have a fresh ginger-like kick with an unusual flavor that I can only describe as umami.  When you’re looking for a touch of the unusual, these bitters will do it for you.  GSN Rating: B+

Krangostura Bitters- I can’t imagine a certain Trinidadian company letting this particular name continue without a legal suit.  Bitters, Old Men say that they are named after a villain from the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles comic series.  We’ll see.  Aside from that, these are very much in line with other aromatic bitters, although softer and will work quite well in any cocktail calling for them.  GSN Rating: A-

Papaya Bitters - These are very subtle and fruity.  Yes, they taste like papaya, but I think they would get lost in a cocktail unless you used a hefty portion of them.  Try with vodka or soju, or use a few drops on top of a drink as a delicate olfactory garnish.   GSN Rating: B-

Prickled Pink Bitters - These have a unique baked vegetal quality similar to sweet potatoes, although the main ingredient is prickly pear cactus.  There is almost an air of Thanksgiving dinner about these.  Try them with cranberry juice based cocktails, agave and mezcal or in an old-fashioned for an extra kick of flavor.  GSN Rating: B+

Roasted Macadamia Bitters - Fee Brothers came out with a Black Walnut bitters last year, which are excellent, but the roasted macadamia nut bitters are quite different.  The flavor is very much forward and present and has a slightly grainy texture.  The taste is quite good and will add a wonderful transcendent quality to any tropical based cocktail.  I think that nut based bitters are going to be the latest trend.  GSN Rating: A+

Smoke Gets In Your Bitters - Not smoked per se, but they include the very smoky Lapsang Souchong tea along with asian pear.  Slightly sweet and quite smoky with a round body.  Another very unusual bitters which has a lot of potential in brown spirit cocktails and tomato based drinks.  Also, these will work well in drinks which call for a hint of Islay scotch for obvious reasons.  The flavor goes on for quite a while.  GSN Rating: A-

Restorative Tonic - Quite dry and with a lot of cinnamon and citrus peel.  You don’t need a lot of this to be “restored”.  I would add about a teaspoon to a small glass of water to quiet an upset stomach, or use a few drops in place of an aromatic bitters.  GSN Rating: B

For more information go to: Bitters, Old Men

It seems that Napoleon’s director-general of instruction, a Docteur Antoine François, comte de Fourcroy had a bit of the amateur mixologist in him.  He had the brilliant idea to soak mandarin oranges in alcohol, then blend the infusion with cognac.  This proved to be a popular beverage with the young ruler of France, so much so that in 1892 (over 70 years after Napoleon passed away in exile on the isle of St. Helena) the same formula that he loved was finally made available to the public.

Still made from a blend of mandarin orange peels from Andalusia, Sicily and Corsica along with 10 year old cognac, spices and herbs, it ages for three years before it is bottled.  The only thing that has changed over the years, is the bottle design which once again features the familiar chapeau of Napoleon.  As the great man himself said, “One must change one’s tactics every ten years if one wishes to maintain one’s superiority.”

Mandarine Napoleon (76 proof)

Visual: Beautiful crystal amber.
Nose: Fresh squeezed orange scent with high notes of bright spices.
Taste:  Rich, viscous and light in orange flavor.  Not overly sweet, as it has a certain slightly bitter edge to cut the higher sugar content of a liqueur.
Finish:  Fairly long, leaving an elegant and refreshing taste.
Overall: A very pleasant and mild liqueur perfect for sipping on the rocks or used in place of any other triple sec.
GSN Rating: A-

For more information go to: Mandarine Napoleon

Everyone loves a mystery.  It draws us in and makes us feel a part of something larger than ourselves.  It’s why bartenders who know the stories behind the products they use are the “bar stars” because they share that knowledge with their customers in an entertaining way.  Certainly you do, right?

Today’s mystery involves the name of a new whisky from Scotland, and I’m about to solve it for you.  “Monkey Shoulder” sounds like a college rock band or an obscure village in New Zealand.  However, it actually has a connection with whisky making.

Back in the days when distilleries malted their barley on the floor of the factory, they would employ “maltsters”, men hired to manually turn the germinating grains by hand with large wooden paddles.  You can imagine that doing this for hours at a time would do two things: give you one hell of an upper body workout and 2) give you very sore muscles.  It was said that it felt like a monkey was sitting on their shoulders by the end of the day.

Although not many distilleries still hand turn their malt, Monkey Shoulder does.  Thankfully, no one there has developed this unusually named symptom.

The whisky is a mix of three Speyside single malts, distilled and aged in first fill Bourbon Barrels.  The master distiller chooses 27 barrels which will make up the ultimate blend.

Monkey Shoulder is distilled under the supervision of William Grants & Sons in Dufftown, Scotland and is currently available in the U.S. in Chicago and in Texas later this year.

Monkey Shoulder Whisky (86 proof)

Visual: Heathery gold.
Nose: Some smoke with sweet roasted malt notes.  Also some brief whiffs of orange and honey come through.
Taste: Very smooth with notes of dried apricot and cherry, hazelnut, caramel, vanilla, carrot, cinnamon sugar and walnut bread.
Finish: Just the slightest amount of smoke with a lot of residual sweetness.
Overall: Quite fine and a tremendous blended Scotch.
GSN Rating: A

For more information go to: Monkey Shoulder

In a world where there seem to be endless variations on vodka, gin and flavored rum; it is exceptionally refreshing to find a white spirit that is truly unique in both taste and heritage.  That spirit is pisco.

Created in Peru about 300 years ago, pisco is distilled from grapes.  Much like tequila and Champagne, there are certain regulations that must be met in order to be called Peruvian pisco. It can be made from one to eight Peruvian grape varietals. It also has to be distilled to proof with no water, flavoring, wood aging or additives.  Pretty strict rules, and therein lies the beauty of true Peruvian pisco.  If you see a bottle of pisco on your local liquor stores’ shelf that says it’s from Chili, you’re not getting the real thing.  Chilean standards for pisco are much lower and the end product is vastly inferior.

Now it’s time for a little lesson on the styles of pisco.  There are three categories – puro, acholado and mosto verde. Puro is made from a single varietal, acholado is a blend of two to eight grapes and mosto verde is the most interesting style, as it made from grape juice that has not entirely fermented.  This keeps some of the sugars from converting into alcohol, and adds extra flavor and aroma. Portón uses only three grape varietals (Quebranta, Albilla and Torontel) and after distillation they rest the spirit for five to eight months in huge cement vaults called “cubas de guardia” to let the flavors develop.

Pisco Portón is made at the oldest distillery in the Americas at Hacienda La Caravedo in Ica, Peru built in 1684.

Pisco Portón (86 proof)

Visual: Perfectly clear.
Nose: A slight muskiness reminiscent of white dog whiskey.  Very floral with overt grape characteristics.
Taste: Quite refreshing and bright with an elegant and yet predominant grape note.  Lots of spice and stone fruit.
Finish: Crisp and with a notable amount of spice.  It goes on to be quite dry and subtle.
Overall: One of the best distilled piscos I’ve ever had.  Highly recommended for pisco punch and the pisco sour, but also great on it’s own.
GSN Rating: A+

For more information go to Pisco Portón

Algonquin

A venerable classic.  Rye and pineapple juice work really well together.  What sets this drink apart is the inclusion of dry vermouth.  It lightens the whole drink and gives it an aristocratic quality.

On an historical note, the Algonquin Hotel where this drink was created is noted for the eponymous “Round Table” meetings which were frequented by the journalistic rat pack whose members included Robert Benchley, George S. Kaufman and Dorothy Parker amongst others.  Sadly tho’, the Algonquin went dry a few years before prohibition, so none of these notables had the opportunity to try the one cocktail the hotel has become best known for.  However, Ms. Parker did pen the following ode to one of the great cocktails of the age.

I like to have a martini.
Two at the very most.
Three, I’m under the table.
Four, I’m under the host.

One wonders where she had her tipples.

Algonquin
1.5 oz straight rye
1 oz dry vermouth
1 oz pineapple juice

Shake all with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

BONUS VIDEO