GSN Review: Laws Whiskey House Whiskies

Established in 2011, Laws Whiskey House is a grain-to-bottle whiskey distillery founded on the principle that the soul of its whiskey is composed of the people who grow it, the people who make it, and the people who drink it. Using the traditional method of open-air, on grain fermentation, Laws’ whiskeys feature high altitude grown heirloom and heritage American grains and mountain spring water while aging in 53-gallon charred American oak barrels.

The full range of expressions includes:

Four Grain Straight Bourbon (95 proof): After two Colorado family farms grow Law’s heirloom varietals of wheat, barley and rye, the labor-intensive cooking technique brings each grain’s individual character to life, while open-air sour mash adds complexity. Aged a minimum of three years in 53-gallon charred oak barrels, influenced by the high-altitude climate. GSN’s Thoughts: The higher proof brings out a lot of high end flavors of the grain bill. Wood aging brings a pointed edginess to the affair. A very well crafted bourbon that hearkens back to an older style of whiksey. GSN Rating: A-
San Luis Valley Straight Rye (95 proof): The first Bonded Rye whiskey to come from Colorado. 8,000 feet above sea level, in Colorado’s San Luis Valley, the Cody family has been cultivating this low yield, semi-wild rye grain since the 1930s. GSN’s Thoughts: Lovely spicy flavors meld with the warm cask notes. We particularly enjoy the bright pop of the rye which has a rich and chewy character. For a straight rye, this is an excellent example of how to do it right. GSN Rating: A+
Centennial Straight Wheat Whiskey (95 proof): Crafted with pre-industrial Centennial wheat, the heirloom spring varietal is grown for Laws in the San Luis Valley. GSN’s Thoughts: Light, elegant and more wood forward than we expected. The soft flavors of the wheat are more subdued, giving this whiskey a more tannic quality. It’s a one-note whiskey that while in itself is fine, begs for a bit more diversity of flavor. GSN Rating: B+
Henry Road Straight Malt Whiskey (95 proof): The barley in Henry Road was literally kept from extinction. Where commercial farmers found it too low yield, Wayne Cody found its unstripped flavor too glorious to let go. Today, his sons, in a field alongside Henry Road, continue to grow, as well as malt, this barley for Laws. They run it through on-grain sour mash and age it for at least three years in charred, 53-gallon new American white oak barrels. GSN’s Thoughts: A really interesting character that we’ve never encountered before. Alomst like oatmeal. Smooth, breakfast-like flavors with a subtle punch of oak, meld into a malt whiskey that begs for use in cocktails. Great flavor, great aging and great character. Highly recommended! GSN Rating: A++