On the north-eastern side of Grenada stands Renegade Rum distillery. A modern marvel and environmentally pioneering, it is designed to distill one terroir at a time of fresh sugar cane juice only, in order to produce a vast array of distinct cane rum distillates, each one unique and compelling in its own right. Renegade either explores them individually – with terroir precision, as an étude; or layers them – the cuvée concept – to create natural rums of complexity.
Renegade is an industry-changing project from Mark Reynier, who has over four decades of experience in the drinks industry. Half in wine, as a former wine importer and merchant; and half in spirits, from the renaissance of Islay’s Bruichladdich single malt whisky and the Botanist gin, to Ireland’s groundbreaking, terroir-driven Waterford Distillery.
Single Farm Origin: Lake Antoine Lower Crater Lake South – At Lake Antoine, intriguing terroirs wrap around the steep, seaward-facing slopes of a volcanic crater lake, where cane grows on granular Woburn clay loam – sparse & dry at the summit, deep & rich at the foot – fully exposed to the desiccating salt-laden Atlantic trade winds. For this rum they harvested the sucrose-rich variety they call Purple Tallboy from Ball Pasture Field, which stands on the terroir known as Lower Crater Lake South. GSN’s Remarks: Vibrant cane nose with a lively freshness. A lot of low end on the palate, with a deep root-like character that at the same time has a vegetal brightness. Very grassy and almost chewy in mouthfeel. Tightly compact, peppery and surprisingly woody with a very long finish. This is a unique rum that in some ways reminds us of a mild Islay Scotch. A contemplative sipping rum. GSN Rating: A-
Single Farm Origin: Nursery – The genesis of Renegade’s pioneering project to propagate entirely clean & healthy heritage cane varieties began at their nursery farm. Nestled in La Calome Valley, with its almost terraced valley floor, it is made up of Hartman & Woburn clay loam soils & a profusion of volcanic boulders. For this rum they harvested the sucrose-rich variety they call Yellow Lady from Big Pumps Field, which stands on the terroir known as Upper La Calome. GSN’s Remarks: A light and soft cane juice nose. On the palate, it also has a lighter feel. More delicate and less aggressive than the Lower Crater Lake South expression, Nursery has a warmer, sunnier and friendlier disposition. This is also slightly sweeter, with notes of marshmallow, milk bread, and confectioner’s sugar. This is a great rum for a Daiquiri or a Mojito, but also a relaxed sipper by itself. GSN Rating: A+
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