GSN Review: Winter 2013 Cocktail Guides

With the holidays well under way, it’s once again time for the Good Spirits News annual round-up of new cocktail, spirits and bartending books.  You’ll be sure to find a few books to gift your favorite bartender or cocktail aficionado.

Schiller’s Liquor Bar Cocktail Collection by Keith McNally (Clarkson Potter)  An interesting publication composed of four small hardcover books in a slipcase, this set lists over 150 of the cocktails available at NYC’s Schiller’s Liquor Bar.  One book is devoted to barware and techniques of mixology.  The other three are filled with classic cocktail recipes, seasonal drinks and original drinks.  As well, each volume has a short introduction by Keith McNally, but I was left wanting more information on the bar itself and why it became the success it is.  The recipes are interspersed with photographs of the drinks and the bar itself, making this a miniature set of coffee table books.  You may not learn much here, but it will give you an idea of what drinks a successful bar should have on its menu.  GSN Rating: B-

Under the Table: A Dorothy Parker Cocktail Guide by Kevin C. Fitzpatrick (Lyons Press)  Dorothy Parker penned the famous witticism “I love a martini, but two at the most.  Three, I’m under the table; four, I’m under the host.”  Of course, there is much more to her than these few lines, including a hefty dose of other prohibition era cocktails.  In this small volume, you will learn about her friendship with some of the leading literary lights of the day at the famous Algonquin Round Table; as well as archival photographs and illustrations from the era.  Many of the recipes are available elsewhere, but seeing them all clustered together one quickly realizes in spite of a lack of quality booze in the 1920’s, people still enjoyed a well-made tipple.  A book for fans of the roaring 20’s, Miss Parker or speakeasies.  GSN Rating: B

Winter Cocktails: Mulled Ciders, Hot Toddies, Punches, Pitchers, and Cocktail Party Snacks by Maria del Mar Sacasa (Quirk)  Just what the title says.  This is a cookbook for wintery beverages and edibles.  Many of the recipes are variations on classic drinks such as hot chocolate, egg nog and sangria.  As well, this book definitely leans toward a sweet tooth.  Loads of color photos along with easy to follow drink recipes make up the majority of pages, but there is also a section on homemade infused liquors, syrups, sour mixes and tomato juice.  If you’re looking for dessert in a glass, you’ll find one here.  GSN Rating: B-

Apothecary Cocktails by Warren Bobrow (Fair Winds)  There are literally hundreds of cocktail guides designed to inebriate, but next to none with the goal of restoring and reviving the imbiber.  Warren Bobrow has taken up the challenge with his book of historical and modern recipes crafted to revive the drinker’s corpse, as it were.  Spiral-bound (God bless him!) this book will have you on your feet in no time, whether you’re feeling under the weather, suffering from the common cold, or trying to recuperate from a night of too many drinks.  None of the recipes are difficult to make, and yet each is extremely flavorful and well thought out.  Most of the drinks are accompanied by artfully depicted photographs.  Overall, a well done book which you’ll find yourself reaching for whenever you’re feeling a little under the weather.  GSN Rating: A

The Long Pour by Adam McDonald (TheBarTenderBook.com)   We all have stories from behind the stick.  Most of them remain as personal memories shared with close friends.  Adam McDonald has done us the favor of collecting dozens of mind-blowing stories from bartenders around the globe.  These aren’t your typical “nudge, nudge” stories either.  Vivid descriptions of sex, drugs and truly idiotic patrons will have your jaw dropping and your eyes tearing up in laughter.  It makes you realize that most of life can indeed be seen while bartending.  I particularly enjoyed the story about the cocaine snorting bartender being hog-tied around a toilet by an undercover cop.  HBO, take note!  These episodes can be your next hit series!  GSN Rating: A-

Raise the Bar by Jon Taffer (New Harvest)  People either love or hate Jon Taffer’s television show Bar Rescue.  Personally, I find it interesting because it educates the public on what goes on behind the scenes of a bar, successful or not.  If you’ve seen the show, this book will fill in the banks and give you a less volatile (read, reality tv friendly) version of what Jon does in his makeovers.  I wouldn’t say this is required reading for bar owners or employees, but it does make you think.  The real substance of this book are the many practical applications to work ethic and presentation.  If you ever thought you could run the bar you work at, read this and you will at the very least have a better understanding of the business.  GSN Rating: B

Drink More Whiskey by Daniel Yaffe (Chronicle Books)  More than just a history of whiskey production and a treatise on the vast array of styles available, this small book also has several intriguing cocktails contributed by many of the most accomplished bartenders around the USA.  This is particularly worthwhile since, there is a dearth of non-bourbon and rye based cocktails in publication.  Broken down into country specific chapters including everything from unaged white dog to the latest Japanese styles, you will learn the basics of each style of whiskey.  An interesting blend of entry-level learning, along with leading edge cocktails.  GSN Rating: B-

Shake: A New Perspective on Cocktails by Eric Prum & Josh Williams (W&P Design LLC)  A cocktail guide published by the duo who created the clever Mason Jar Shaker (reviewed by GSN here).  Their vision for this book is three-fold.  Cocktails should be 1) fun 2) simple, 3 social.  Keeping this premise in mind, don’t expect anything that will challenge Tony Conigliaro.  But, these are great original drinks anyone can make at home.  What is particularly engaging, is that each drink is placed within a seasonal section based on what is available in your local market.  You’ll find drinks calling for kale, caper berries, lilac flowers and even cava.  You don’t necessarily need their bespoke shaker to make these drinks, but it helps.  Oh, and the book is liberally filled with beautifully photographed pictures of each drink in a style reminiscent of blueprints.  GSN Rating: B

The Curious Bartender: The Artistry and Alchemy of Creating the Perfect Cocktail by Tristan Stephenson (Ryland Peters)  A fun and well researched volume on recreating the classic cocktails of the past 150 years using modern methodology.  If you’re a fan of Chef Heston Blumenthal’s creativity, you will find much here to whet your mixological appetite.  Techniques ranging from ageing to smoking cocktails with many stops along the way, will give you plenty of opportunity to experiment.  With 25% of the book devoted to techniques, the remainder is filled with beautiful photographs of both the original and re-envisioned versions along with histories, insights and recipes.  A one page section on resources is helpful, if you’re trying to track down hard to find ingredients and equipment.  GSN Rating: A-

Basics of Mixology: Training

Today’s post is sponsored by PAMA liqueur.  Follow @PAMAPros on Twitter!

Go to most bars in any city, doesn’t matter if it’s New York, New Orleans or San Francisco. Chat up the bartender and ask them what kind of training they got when they were starting out.  Nine times out of ten, they will usually laugh and say, “none”.  It amazes me that a lot of bartenders who have been working for years, still get by with a minimal amount of knowledge and training  It doesn’t have to be that way.  There are several well-respected programs and organizations available to bartenders which will both increase their knowledge and understanding behind the flavor profiles of mixology; but also their skill behind the stick.  Better drinks mean better tips and returning customers.

I was lucky that my early efforts in bartending were helped by some of the luminaries in the cocktail world. Not only did I do a lot of reading, studying and practicing on my own, but over the years I’ve had the opportunity to learn from experts like Paul Pacult, Steve Olson, David Wondrich, Doug Frost and Andy Seymour from the B.A.R. (Beverage Alcohol Resource). Each brings years of practical experience, knowledge and insight into the world of spirits and mixology.  Without them, I would most likely not have started Good Spirits News or made my interest in the world of cocktails more than just a passing hobby.

Each year, PAMA recognizes the importance of learning in the field of spirits, liqueurs and mixology by sending three exceptional bartenders to the intensive five-day B.A.R. program in New York City which enables them to achieve the coveted B.A.R. diploma.  This year Chad Arnholt (Trick Dog, San Francisco), Joy Richard (Citizen Public House/Franklin Restaurant Group, Boston) and Pamela Wiznitzer (The Dead Rabbit, New York) all benefited from the 40 hour course.

In addition, PAMA holds an annual competition open to all professional bartenders which this year will be judged by B.A.R.’s Paul Pacult and Steve Olson, along with Clover Club and Pegu Club’s Julie Reiner, The Butterfly’s Eben Freeman and Heaven Hill Distillery’s Director of Marketing, Kate Shapira Latts.  You can enter your original PAMA cocktail here.

In the autumn of 2012 PAMA held the first Pamalympics in NYC where Josh Perez of Booker & Dax took home the gold medal. The recipe for his winning cocktail is below*.  As well, starting this month PAMA will debut a series of themed events entitled the Bar Star Media Series which will take place in major cities around the country. PAMA also regularly sponsors several cocktail events around the country including the Manhattan Cocktail Classic, New Orleans’ Tales of the Cocktail, Kentucky’s Camp Runamok and regional USBG (United States Bartenders Guild) Monthly Mixers.

It’s clear that PAMA actively supports the bartending community.  Reason enough to raise a glass to their ongoing commitment to helping bartenders bring their “A” game to their customers.  Cheers!

PAMA-Cho-Bana
1 oz. PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur
1 oz. Bourbon
1 oz. Honey
1 oz. Chobani Greek Yogurt, whipped
Finely Ground Fennel, for garnish

Directions: Stir PAMA, bourbon and honey in a mixing glass with ice for approximately 15-20 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe glass. Float whipped Chobani Greek Yogurt on top and garnish with a dash of finely ground fennel.

Josh Perez in action

Basics of Mixology: Versatility

Just as in any aspect of life, the more versatile you are, the better your chances of success.  The same thing applies to mixology, and by extension creating great cocktails.  You don’t need to own a lot of complicated tools, or even a back bar’s worth of liquor to be able to make innovative and tasty drinks at home.

Think about the base spirits you’re familiar with.  These are generally broken down into the following styles: brandies, whiskies, rums, gins, vodkas and tequilas.  90% of the cocktails you’ve ever had or will make call for one of these spirits.  Iconic drinks using these include the Sidecar (cognac), Manhattan (bourbon or rye), Daiquiri (white rum), Martini (London dry gin), Moscow Mule (Russian vodka), and Margarita (blanco tequila).

One thing to realize is that each of these drinks only use three ingredients.  Usually a base spirit, a modifier (usually a sweetener like a liqueur or simple syrup, sometimes an aperitif), and a souring agent (juice) or bitters.  I’ve previously discussed the use of modifiers here.  But, to talk just a bit more about modifiers; they generally work well with any base spirit, as long as they are used in the right proportion.  Which is why you should always measure your ingredients using a jigger or similar measuring device.  You can free pour all you want, but it’s doubtful that your drinks will come out exactly the same every time.

In any case, try the following experiment.  Mix the same drink using different ratios.  For example, try stirring a martini with gin and vermouth using a 3-1 ratio, a 2-1 ratio and a 1-1 ratio.  Then taste each one.  You can see how various flavors within the ingredients either blend or tend to dominate the overall profile.  Now try adding one dash, two dashes and three dashes of orange bitters to each drink, then stir.  Taste again.  The bitters will bring a larger cohesiveness to the cocktail in varying degrees depending on how much you use.  Now consider that just these three ingredients: gin, vermouth and bitters contain dozens of flavenoids from the infusions of various herbs and spices.  Even a relatively simple drink like the martini becomes rather complex flavor-wise.

This article’s sponsor is PAMA liqueur.  What is particularly interesting about PAMA is that it works well with all of the base spirits mentioned above.  Having a sweet and tart flavor, it never overwhelms a drink, but rather lifts and enhances it when used in the correct ratio. Experiment #2 is to try and use PAMA as a 4th ingredient in some of your favorite cocktails and see what happens.  Start out using a 1/4 ounce, and then add another 1/4 ounce if you feel the pomegranate flavor is still buried.  You can create new and interesting variations on the classics at any time in this way.  To get you started, here’s a recipe that has a tiki/faux tropical profile.

Cheers!

A Bird in the Hand (Recipe by Eben Freeman, courtesy of PAMA)
Glass: Tiki Mug
Garnish: Pineapple Leaf, Cherry, and Orange Wheel
Ingredients:
1 oz. PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur
1 oz. Spiced Rum
½ oz. Triple Sec
1 oz. Lime Juice
1 oz. Pineapple Juice
Dash Simple Syrup

Method: Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Add ice and shake vigorously. Strain into mug, fill with crushed ice, stir, and top with more crushed ice.

Basics of Mixology: Texture

Early pioneering mixologists knew that great cocktails were more than just a collection of sweet, sour, strong and weak elements.  They used a holistic approach to their drink making, which included visuals (the Blue Blazer is a great example), scent (fresh-cut citrus peel sprays the surface with oils) and texture (the inclusion of egg white).  This time around we’re going to focus on texture.

Unfortunately, most bartenders ignore this important aspect of cocktails.  Martinis are shaken, Old-Fashioneds are a muddled mess of fruit and soda water, and Margaritas come out of a sour-mix slush machine.  I suppose one could argue that these relatively recent changes to the classics are what people expect when they order one from the bar.  But, these are not how they were originally intended to be made, nor are they improvements by any standard.

The texture of a drink means that it has a pleasantly smooth character and that it visually appears to have an elegant and somewhat sexy appearance.  Think of satin, and visualize how it feels in your hand.  Texture in a cocktail does much the same thing.

With PAMA liqueur, many drinks can achieve a smoothness which incorporates all of the above aspects in a cocktail.  Visually, it is a rich, and luscious garnet color.  The olfactory response is mouth-watering due to its intense fruit nose.  The tannins in the juice bring a perceived dryness (similar to what you find in dry red wines) creating a natural mouth-watering response, which in turn gives the drink extra texture.  But, most of all, the blend of pomegranate juice and spirits has a sleek and smooth texture which translates into the glass as pure sophistication and luxury.

Try the recipe below and see what I mean.  Make sure you use a good Cognac and not a brandy.  It makes all the difference.

50/50 Proposition
Glass: Snifter
Garnish: Dash Orange Bitters (I recommend Bitter Truth)
Ingredients:
1 1/2 oz. PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur
1 1/2 oz. Cognac
Method: Combine all ingredients in a chilled mixing glass. Add ice and stir for 40 seconds. Strain into chilled snifter set with 1 large ice-cube.

For more recipes, click on the PAMA ad on the right of Good Spirits News.

Basics of Mixology: Modifiers

The craft of mixology is one akin to many popular card games.  Easy to learn, difficult to master.  If it were easy, we’d win every custom cocktail contest and make a name for ourselves in no time.   But, there really are just a few basics which everyone should know and understand when creating an original cocktail.   Let’s start with the ingredients.  Almost all cocktails can be broken down into three magic parts: 1) a base spirit, 2) a modifier, and 3) a visual or flavor enhancer, often both.

Base spirits are the easy part.  What will you use as the foundation of your cocktail?  In general you have brandies, whiskies, rums, gins, vodkas and agave based spirits.  The next step is choosing what to add to it.  This is called “The Modifier” or in simpler terms, what makes a cocktail, a cocktail.  If you were to take a base spirit and shake it with ice, then strain it into a cocktail glass and serve it; you would not have made a cocktail.  A modifier takes what you’re already working with, adds to and enhances it, until you have something more interesting and marvelous than either ingredient on it’s own.  A modifier not only takes the edge off an 80 proof spirit, but clarifies the character of the spirit in the same way spices work in cooking.  You can add additional modifiers, bitters, colored liqueurs, creams, herbs or what have you.  The first modifier is really what starts the whole ball rolling.

As this post has been sponsored by the good folks at PAMA liqueur, I’d like to focus on their product as a suggested modifier to work with this month.  I’ve been using PAMA myself for several years now and have recommended it to many people as a high quality and quite useful product.  Unlike many grenadine syrups you’ll find on the market, PAMA actually uses real pomegranates with a color and flavor both natural and enticing.  It’s also 34 proof, which adds a depth and richness to a cocktail, and also boosts the overall quality of the finished product. I often use a 50/50 mix of a real grenadine syrup (which is quite sweet) and PAMA (which has a bright, tart quality) to any cocktail calling for grenadine.

If your customers are looking for something which goes beyond the usual cloying sweetness of a Tequila Sunrise for instance, try using my 50/50 ratio and see what they say.  Watch for their facial reaction also.  It’s sure to start an interesting dialogue.  It also works especially well in the classic Jack Rose cocktail.

If you want to experiment even further, try using PAMA as an alternative to the usual citrus juice/simple syrup blend found in a sour mix or fruit based liqueur such as triple sec.  Remember, Pama is less sweet and more tart than most liqueurs, so you may want to begin by using a different amount than the recipe states.  The possibilities are only as limited as your imagination!  Have fun, and keep mixing!

Here’s a new cocktail for you to try, courtesy of PAMA:

PAMA & Rye
Glass: Rocks
Garnish: Orange Wheel
Ingredients:
1 oz. PAMA
1 oz. High Proof Rye Whiskey
1 oz. Orange Juice
1/2 oz. Simple Syrup
1/2 oz. Lemon Juice

Method: Combine all ingredients in a shaker.  Add ice and shake vigorously.  Strain into rocks glass over fresh ice and garnish.

GSN Interview: Dale DeGroff

Dale DeGroff needs no introduction.  He’s been at the forefront of the cocktail revival since the 1980’s and continues to lead the way through programs like B.A.R. and BarSmarts.  As well, he has been touring a show called “ON THE TOWN! A Salute to Saloons, Bars, & Legendary Cocktail Palaces!” for the past few years.  I had the opportunity to talk with Dale via phone a few weeks ago and ask him about his bartending history, where the nickname “King Cocktail”  came from, his new Pimento Bitters, and the most important thing every bartender should know.

You can listen to the interview below:

Dale Interview Part 1

Dale Interview Part 2

Dale Interview Part 3